Both melasma and hyperpigmentation involve an overproduction of pigment. 

If you’ve ever had freckles, a summer tan, or a dark spot pop up on your face or arm, this is all a result of a pigment called melanin, which is produced by cells called melanocytes. 

Hyperpigmentation occurs when there is a threat to the skin, and the melanocyte produces melanin as a protective response. When the melanin production is excessive or uneven, it forms irregular dark spots on the skin’s surface.

When exposed to sunlight, the deeper-penetrating UVA rays stimulate the melanocytes in our skin to produce melanin. 

If you experience too much sun exposure, you can develop sunspots of hyperpigmentation. 

Over time, continued sun exposure accumulates into long-term sun damage. Sun damage from our youth can even appear years later, showing up in our skin as adults. 

This results in more melanin production as we age, and, consequently, more persistent hyperpigmentation; thus the battle against uneven skin tone begins.

Another common cause of hyperpigmentation comes from inflammation. 

When the skin is injured or inflamed, it triggers a defensive response in which melanocytes increase melanin production. This melanin is meant to protect the skin, but it can result in uneven pigmentation as the skin heals.

This leads to visible dark spots where the inflammation occurs called “post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation” which encompasses various factors contributing to hyperpigmentation, including the following:

• Trauma to the Skin: Cuts, burns, or surgical wounds also cause localized hyperpigmentation as the skin heals. Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation differs from scars in that it is purely a pigmentary change and does not affect the texture or structure of the skin. 
• Skin Irritation: Allergic reactions, insect bites, or using products that are too strong for your skin, can also lead to an inflammatory response and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. 
• In-Office Treatments: Many prejuvenation treatments lead to inflammation as part of the process. For those prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, pre-treatment with depigmenting agents for a few weeks before treatment will help reduce overall melanin production, and prevent a flare-up from the inflammation of the treatment itself.
  
  

• Diligent sun protection: This is your frontline of defense. Sunscreen and protective clothing are essential for managing hyperpigmentation.
  
• Active Ingredients: Topical depigmenting ingredients, such as hydroquinone, Azelaic acid, Licorice extract, Vitamin C, and Retinoids are effective management tools. These ingredients can help improve this type of hyperpigmentation within three to six months.
  
• Laser & Light Treatments: IPL (Intense Pulsed Light) or BBL (BroadBand Light) can temporarily improve discoloration by breaking up the pigment. However, these treatments do not cure hyperpigmentation and require ongoing management.
  
• Chemical peels: Exfoliating treatments are beneficial for hyperpigmentation as they remove the damaged, pigmented outer layers of skin, promoting the growth of new, evenly pigmented skin. Pretreating the skin with depigmenting agents before any advanced exfoliation treatment is advised.
  
  

Melasma is a specific form of hyperpigmentation but it’s unique in many ways. 

It can sometimes be tricky to differentiate, because some instances of hyperpigmentation can form into large patches and resemble melasma.

But, melasma goes deeper than topical hyperpigmentation, found within multiple layers of the skin and therefore has a more pronounced and persistent appearance. This also makes it more difficult to treat effectively.

Since melasma is a form of hyperpigmentation there is some overlap, like the melanocyte activity leading to an overproduction of melanin as a result of UV light. 

Both conditions are significantly worsened by sun exposure, but melasma takes it one step further because it is also triggered by heat.

Not only heat from the sun but even exercise or spicy food can make matters worse.

Anything that increases blood flow to the skin (like heat), can flare up melasma.

It is important to not only protect yourself with sunscreen, but also provide shade with wide-brimmed hats and umbrellas, and avoid peak heat hours during the day to manage melasma effectively.

While typical hyperpigmentation happens following external damage, melasma can be driven by internal biological factors: 

• Hormones: Melasma is often triggered by hormonal changes, which is why it is so prevalent among pregnant women. Hormonal fluctuations from birth control, pregnancy, and hormone replacement therapy can influence melasma. Estrogen is believed to act on melanocytes and make you sensitive to sunlight.
• Stress: Stress contributes to hormonal imbalances, particularly involving cortisol and estrogen. This inadvertently stimulates melanocytes to produce more melanin, and stress-induced inflammation can further exacerbate pigmentation.
• Thyroid: An overactive or underactive thyroid can disrupt the balance of hormones, leading to increased pigmentation in the skin.
• Family history: Some studies report that up to approximately 60% of patients with melasma have a positive family history, suggesting a genetic predisposition.
• Certain medications or ingredients in cosmetic products can also activate hyperpigmentation and melasma.
  
  

• Sun protection: Melasma is highly exacerbated by sun exposure and heat. Broad-spectrum sunblock (UVA and UVB) is a fundamental preventive measure.
• Daily Use of Topical Suppressive Agents: Use products that contain active ingredients to target melanin at the source. Make sure you use gentle formulations to avoid triggering inflammation and making matters worse. 
• Hormonal Considerations: Hormone replacement therapy or birth control pills, can influence melasma. Understanding these factors and making informed choices can help manage and reduce the severity of melasma.
• Stay Cool: Avoid prolonged exposure to high temperatures, including saunas and hot showers.

Even mild melasma can flare up dramatically with inappropriate treatments. It is crucial to distinguish melasma from other forms of hyperpigmentation to avoid these adverse effects.

• Treating melasma with high-intensity lasers or IPL can significantly worsen the condition. The heat of the lasers intended to remove the pigment can exacerbate melasma, leading to darker and more extensive patches. For treating melasma, low-energy lasers are generally considered safer to avoid worsening the condition.
• Chemical peels are unpredictable with melasma and must be approached with caution due to the high risk of irritation and the potential to worsen pigmentation. While some may experience improvement, depending on the underlying cause, others may see no change or even worsening of the condition.
  
  

When it comes to treatments, understanding the differences between hyperpigmentation and melasma, and knowing how to treat each condition appropriately, is crucial. 

Treatments for hyperpigmentation can be more aggressive, while melasma requires gentler approaches to avoid exacerbation. If you aren’t sure which one you have, err on the side of caution and go with the gentle options.

Hyperpigmentation can often be resolved when the underlying cause is treated. Melasma may need ongoing intervention due to internal, biological causes that are not so easily remedied.

In both cases, diligent sun protection is essential for prevention and treatment. Using a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher, wearing protective clothing, and avoiding peak sun hours can help. 

The primary approach to managing skin pigment is daily use of active ingredients that have been proven to reduce melanin production, improve cell turnover, and are gentle enough to avoid inflammation and irritation. 

These are essential components to managing any type of pigmented skin.

Effective skincare that targets melanin overproduction is your offensive line in managing both hyperpigmentation and melasma.

This can help prevent the formation of new dark spots and help to lighten existing pigmentation. 

Here is a list of key players in decreasing melanin production and stopping hyperpigmentation and melasma at the root:

Retinol accelerates cell turnover, promoting the shedding of old, pigmented cells and the growth of new, evenly pigmented cells. This promotes a more even skin tone, resulting in a brighter and more youthful complexion.

[found in Illuminate / Trifecta]

Vitamin C inhibits melanin production by interfering with the enzyme tyrosinase, which is crucial in the formation of melanin. Its antioxidant properties protect skin cells from UV-induced damage and free radicals, reducing pigmentation and promoting a brighter, more even skin tone. 

[found in Quench / Trifecta]

Niacinamide supports even skin tone and texture by inhibiting the transfer of melanin to skin cells, reducing pigmentation. It also regulates sebum production, minimizes pore appearance, and strengthens the skin barrier, enhancing moisture retention and reducing discoloration and dullness.

[found in Illuminate / Trifecta]

Azelaic Acid evens skin tone by reducing melanin activity. It also has mild exfoliating properties that help remove dead skin cells, promoting a smoother and brighter complexion and reducing the appearance of dark spots and hyperpigmentation. 

[found in Polish]

Licorice Root Extract soothes irritation and inflammation, which can help prevent post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Directly contributes to reduced melanin production to brighten the skin and help fade dark spots, contributing to a more balanced and even complexion. 

[found in Quench / Trifecta]

Green Tea Extract provides antioxidant protection against environmental stressors and UV damage, which can cause pigmentation. It contains polyphenols that soothe the skin and reduce inflammation, helping to maintain an even skin tone and improving overall texture and brightness.

[found in Quench / Trifecta]

Bakuchiol is a plant-based retinol alternative that promotes smoother skin texture by increasing cell turnover, thus reducing the appearance of fine lines and hyperpigmentation. It inhibits melanin production similarly to Retinol but with less irritation, resulting in a brighter and more even skin tone. 

[found in Enrich]

Bromelain exfoliates dead skin cells by breaking down the proteins that hold them together. This enzymatic action promotes a smoother and brighter complexion by revealing fresher, more evenly pigmented skin underneath, reducing the appearance of dark spots and uneven texture.

[found in Polish]

Aloe Vera soothes and moisturizes the skin, providing relief to irritated areas and supporting hydration. While it doesn't directly reduce pigmentation, its calming effect helps prevent inflammation-induced hyperpigmentation and supports the healing process, leading to a healthier, more even skin tone.

[found in Rinse, Quench, Illuminate / Trifecta]

Daisy Flower Extract brightens skin by reducing melanin production. It also soothes and hydrates the skin, helping to alleviate sensitivity and irritation that can lead to uneven skin tone. Its gentle exfoliating properties aid in removing dead skin cells, contributing to a brighter complexion. 

[found in Enrich]

Willowherb Extract calms and soothes the skin, minimizing redness and irritation that can lead to hyperpigmentation. It also helps control sebum production, reducing acne-related hyperpigmentation and contributing to a clearer, more even skin tone

[found in Rinse, Quench / Trifecta]

Papain gently exfoliates by breaking down the proteins that hold dead skin cells together, promoting their removal. This enzymatic exfoliation reveals a brighter, smoother skin texture and helps reduce the appearance of dark spots and uneven pigmentation. 

[found in Polish]

The ingredients we use in all of our products at KaramMD Skin are safe and effective for both hyperpigmentation and melasma. 

By committing to a daily routine with gentle, but powerful actives, you are going to be steadily working towards clear, even-toned skin each morning and evening. 

Trifecta makes it easy to stay consistent with your treatment, and, when paired with diligent sun protection, it is possible to keep hyperpigmentation and melasma under control and achieve clearer skin and a balanced skin tone once again.